This guide explains what the Metz SCA system is, the difference between its main versions, how to select and install SCA adapters, how to use TTL and manual flash control, high-speed sync, off-camera options, and common troubleshooting tips.

1. What the SCA system does

Metz designed the System Connector Adapter (SCA) to make their flashes adaptable across many camera brands. Instead of buying a different flash for each brand, you pair a Metz flash with an SCA adapter that “translates” the electrical contacts and control signals. That way, a single Metz unit can work with Nikon, Canon, Minolta, Leica, and many more — while still providing TTL or other camera-specific functions.

2. Main SCA families

• SCA 300 – the original series, developed during the film SLR era. These adapters allow TTL and basic communication but don’t support newer digital protocols.
• SCA 3000 – the updated family for the digital age. These modules handle modern TTL systems (E-TTL, i-TTL, etc.) and sometimes add features like high-speed sync. Versions are marked M3, M5, M6, etc., with higher numbers usually indicating newer firmware.
• Other SCA branches – Metz also released other system connectors (e.g., SCA-500) for special applications, but the bulk of modern use involves the 3000 series.
  

3. Choosing the right adapter

1. Check your flash model (e.g., 54 MZ-4i, 58 AF-1).
2. Look up Metz’s compatibility charts — these list which adapter matches which camera brand and model, plus what features will work.
3. Pay attention to version codes — if your camera is recent, you may need an adapter with updated firmware (e.g., SCA 3102 M6 instead of M3).
   

4.  Attaching the system

• Switch off both flash and camera before connecting.
• Slide the adapter into the flash’s detachable base until it clicks.
• Mount the assembled unit on the camera hot shoe and lock it in place.
• Power up the camera first, then the flash. On most cameras, the flash-ready indicator should appear in the viewfinder or LCD if the setup is correct.

5. TTL flash operation

With the proper adapter, your camera can control flash exposure through its native TTL system. Flash exposure compensation (FEC) is often set on the camera, though some Metz units allow adjustment on the flash itself. If exposures are slightly off, dial in a correction using the camera’s controls.

6. Manual control

Even with no adapter at all, Metz flashes can be used in manual mode. Here you choose the power output (full, 1/2, 1/4, down to 1/128) and set the zoom head as needed. Manual is the most predictable approach when working with studio lights or third-party triggers.

7. High-speed sync and sync limits

• If your flash + adapter + camera all support high-speed sync, you can shoot above the camera’s normal sync speed (e.g., 1/500s).
• If not, you’ll be limited to the standard X-sync speed (usually between 1/60s and 1/250s). Check the compatibility chart to confirm.
  

8. Off-camera options

• Wired: Metz made SCA extension cords so you can keep TTL communication even with the flash off-camera. One type has a plug at one end to fit Metz hammerhead flash units, the other (SCA 307A) has a male module connector on one end and a female module connector on the other and is used for all hot shoe Metz flash off camera.
• Optical/radio: Many Metz flashes have an optical slave mode. For radio triggers, most photographers use them in manual mode unless the trigger system specifically supports Metz TTL (rare).
  

9. Troubleshooting checklist

• Make sure you’re using the correct adapter family and version.
• Always power down before connecting or removing modules.
• Test the flash in manual mode at your camera’s sync speed to confirm the basic connection works.
• Clean the contacts with a cotton bud and alcohol if the flash misfires.
• Be cautious with older Metz flashes: some output higher trigger voltages that may damage modern cameras unless the SCA adapter regulates it.
  

10. Care and storage

Avoid stress on the camera hot shoe if you’re using a heavy Metz flash use a bracket or cable.

Keep adapters in labeled pouches so you don’t mix them up.

Don’t store the flash with batteries installed for long periods – leaking batteries will ruin the contacts inside your flashgun..

See a full range of Metz flashguns and accessories here

The Olympus Trip 35 is a 35mm metal bodied point & shoot compact camera that was produced from 1967 to 1984. In the 70s Olympus created an advertising campaign that featured British fashion photographer David Bailey. While famous in photography and fashion circles, he became a household name thanks to that campaign. People would say “I’m no David Bailey” when being asked about their photography.

The Trip 35 looks like a rangefinder camera but is a much simpler design. Its Zuiko 40mm f/2.8 lens has four elements in three groups and just four zone focusing settings.

The exposure system is fairly basic too. A solar-powered selenium light meter around the lens provides a program auto exposure system when the camera is set to the ‘A’ mode. No batteries are required. It automatically sets 1/40th sec or 1/200th sec shutter speed and an aperture from f/2.8 to f/22. If the light levels are too low the shutter locks and a large red warning marker pops up in the viewfinder. Turn from the A setting and you have a manual option at all aperture ranges.

The camera has a flash PC sync socket along with a hot shoe and syncs with flash at 1/40sec. There’s an ISO range, set on a dial at the front of the lens, from 25 to 400 which at the time covered all the main film options.

It’s a great camera for point and shoot photography, solidly made and considering the price a very respectable performance with a sharp Zuiko lens. There are many available on the second hand market…eBay has dozens for sale at any one time, and you can usually find them at car boot sales and second hand dealers.

There are a few things to check before buying an Olympus Trip 35
The Trip 35 had a common fault with the meter. To test this rotate the film advance winder to cock the shutter, set the camera to A and hold your hand over the lens to block out the light. If the camera is faulty the shutter will fire. If it’s ok the red warning indicator will appear in the viewfinder and the shutter button will not press down.

Check the lens hasn’t got fungus in it. Angle it in the light or shine a torch into the lens and look for small patches of veins on the surface of the elements.

Look at the foam light seals inside the camera film chamber. It’s not a major issue if they are crumbling, replacements can be bought, but this will put up the overall cost.

Check that the screw heads aren’t worn as that would indicate the camera has been repaired, by someone who’s less competent.  Also make sure the tripod thread isn’t damaged.

Adjust the manual aperture setting and press the shutter release down. The lens aperture should go progressively smaller as you adjust from f/2.8 to f/22.

Try a flashgun attached via the PC socket and hot shoe to test both these connections.

How much to pay for a Trip 35
You can pay anything from a couple of quid to £60 for one of these Olympus Trip 35 cameras.  A typical price for a good condition one is about £30-£40. They used to sell new for a similar price. Some photographers are buying them to refurb with a new skin, replacing the black plastic trim for wood veneer, leather or snake skin. These tend to resell for the higher prices, but look gorgeous.

You can buy the Olympus Trip and other 35mm film compact cameras and SLRs from the PhotographyAttic’s Used and second hand 35mm Cameras for sale page