This guide explains what the Metz SCA system is, the difference between its main versions, how to select and install SCA adapters, how to use TTL and manual flash control, high-speed sync, off-camera options, and common troubleshooting tips.
1. What the SCA system does
Metz designed the System Connector Adapter (SCA) to make their flashes adaptable across many camera brands. Instead of buying a different flash for each brand, you pair a Metz flash with an SCA adapter that “translates” the electrical contacts and control signals. That way, a single Metz unit can work with Nikon, Canon, Minolta, Leica, and many more — while still providing TTL or other camera-specific functions.
2. Main SCA families
SCA 300 – the original series, developed during the film SLR era. These adapters allow TTL and basic communication but don’t support newer digital protocols.
SCA 3000 – the updated family for the digital age. These modules handle modern TTL systems (E-TTL, i-TTL, etc.) and sometimes add features like high-speed sync. Versions are marked M3, M5, M6, etc., with higher numbers usually indicating newer firmware.
Other SCA branches – Metz also released other system connectors (e.g., SCA-500) for special applications, but the bulk of modern use involves the 3000 series.
3. Choosing the right adapter
Check your flash model (e.g., 54 MZ-4i, 58 AF-1).
Look up Metz’s compatibility charts — these list which adapter matches which camera brand and model, plus what features will work.
Pay attention to version codes — if your camera is recent, you may need an adapter with updated firmware (e.g., SCA 3102 M6 instead of M3).
4. Attaching the system
Switch off both flash and camera before connecting.
Slide the adapter into the flash’s detachable base until it clicks.
Mount the assembled unit on the camera hot shoe and lock it in place.
Power up the camera first, then the flash. On most cameras, the flash-ready indicator should appear in the viewfinder or LCD if the setup is correct.
5. TTL flash operation
With the proper adapter, your camera can control flash exposure through its native TTL system. Flash exposure compensation (FEC) is often set on the camera, though some Metz units allow adjustment on the flash itself. If exposures are slightly off, dial in a correction using the camera’s controls.
6. Manual control
Even with no adapter at all, Metz flashes can be used in manual mode. Here you choose the power output (full, 1/2, 1/4, down to 1/128) and set the zoom head as needed. Manual is the most predictable approach when working with studio lights or third-party triggers.
7. High-speed sync and sync limits
If your flash + adapter + camera all support high-speed sync, you can shoot above the camera’s normal sync speed (e.g., 1/500s).
If not, you’ll be limited to the standard X-sync speed (usually between 1/60s and 1/250s). Check the compatibility chart to confirm.
8. Off-camera options
Wired: Metz made SCA extension cords so you can keep TTL communication even with the flash off-camera. One type has a plug at one end to fit Metz hammerhead flash units, the other (SCA 307A) has a male module connector on one end and a female module connector on the other and is used for all hot shoe Metz flash off camera.
Optical/radio: Many Metz flashes have an optical slave mode. For radio triggers, most photographers use them in manual mode unless the trigger system specifically supports Metz TTL (rare).
9. Troubleshooting checklist
Make sure you’re using the correct adapter family and version.
Always power down before connecting or removing modules.
Test the flash in manual mode at your camera’s sync speed to confirm the basic connection works.
Clean the contacts with a cotton bud and alcohol if the flash misfires.
Be cautious with older Metz flashes: some output higher trigger voltages that may damage modern cameras unless the SCA adapter regulates it.
10. Care and storage
Avoid stress on the camera hot shoe if you’re using a heavy Metz flash use a bracket or cable.
Keep adapters in labeled pouches so you don’t mix them up.
Don’t store the flash with batteries installed for long periods – leaking batteries will ruin the contacts inside your flashgun..
There is some confusion about which battery fits which Nikon camera and which charger you should use when considering the Nikon EN-EL3 (also supplied as the EN-ENL3a and Nikon EN-EL3e. This is not surprising as both batteries look pretty much the same, dimensionally at least. They’re both also Li-ion 7.4V 1400mAh. The real difference is the Nikon EN-EL3e has three contacts while the Nikon EN-EL3/EN-EL3a has just two.
The third contact on the EN-EL3e battery sits in the middle of the two contacts found on the EN-EL3. This third contact was added to provide additional information for Nikon’s D200 Digital SLR. The battery will however fit and work in older cameras. But the older two contact EN-EL3 battery will not go fully into the more modern three contact cameras as the camera’s third internal contact will prevent the battery from slipping all the way into the housing.
When it comes to the battery charger the MH-18 / MH-18a will charge both the EN-EH3 and the EN-EH3e batteries
Cameras that take the EN-EL3e battery Nikon D50 Nikon D70 Nikon D70s Nikon D80 Nikon D90 Nikon D100 Nikon D200 Nikon D300 Nikon D300S Nikon D700
Cameras that take the EN-EL3 / EN-EL3a battery Nikon D50 Nikon D70 Nikon D70s Nikon D100
Wildlife photographers often wish they owned a longer lens of 500mm or so to taking close ups of birds and other smaller creatures. And often they may already have such a lens in the form of a spotting scope. By attaching the camera to the rear end of the spotting scope you create a lens with a similar magnification to that of around 800mm
This technique is referred to as digiscoping.
You need to buy an adaptor to attach the camera to your spotting scope. These are often specific to the spotting scope and with the exception of a few
camera brand adaptors, they usually all have a T2 mount thread at the camera end. So you buy the adaptor, attach it to the scope and then screw in a T2 adaptor that’s specific to your camera mount. We have the T2 camera mounts here at PhotographyAttic
Camera specific scopes such as the Pentax PF80D need the PF-CA35 which has a direct camera mount.
The Nikon Fieldscope range including the EDIII A need the FSA-L1. Nikon also produce the FSA-L2 for exclusive use on EDG Fieldscopes
Opticron have a wide range of scopes and several adaptor combinations all requiring a T2 mount at the camera end. See the Opticron Telephotography and Digi-scoping page for more details
Swarovski also have a range of scopes and a really informative page on digiscoping: Equipment – spotting scopes, cameras, etc. You need a T2 mount with their systems
Barr & Stroud supply a spotting scope adaptor for their Sahara and Bresser Safari spotting scopes. T2 mount required. This adaptor also fits some Helios, Bresser, Meade and Praktica spotting scopes.
Leica’s DSLR Photo-adaptor allows T2 mounted SLRs to be attached to the Leica Spotting scopes
T2 adaptors do not have any form of electrical contacts so you have to use your camera’s manual or aperture-priority mode. As the spotting scope doesn’t have apertures you just point and shoot and the camera will set the correct shutter speed. You could use the ISO setting to adjust shutter speed and increase the ISO for a faster shutter speed.
Focusing is manual. Focus the scope like you normally would but take more care on accurate point as the lack of depth of field will mean you have to be spot on to get a sharp photo. Also the increased magnification will make it difficult to hand hold so it’s better to use a tripod.
The 220º Nikkor fisheye lens weighs 5.2kg, measures 171mm in length and has a diameter of 236mm. It’s one of the few 220º Nikkor fisheye lenses ever to be made.
